The aromatic hop plateby Lucy Saunders
Aroma hops take on new significance as ingredients -- but not just in beer, anymore, thanks to the efforts of Melaine and Bruce Morford, proprietors of the Windflower Farms in Washington. The Morfords are now harvesting hop shoots destined for the kitchen, not the brew kettle.
"Hops are considered a true culinary delicacy in Belgium," said Gerard W. Ch. Lemmens, executive vice president of Morris Hanbury, an importer of British and Continental hops. "I lived near hop fields and loved sampling the shoots as they first appeared in spring."
Of course, the gentler bitterness of the classic aroma hops, such as Fuggle and its hybrid Willamette, Golding, Hallertau, Hersbruck and Tettnang, makes the best transition to culinary uses. Also, the smaller the shoot, the more delicate the flavor will be.
"The Belgians use hops instead of asparagus in gratinee sauces," said Lemmens. A basic creamy bŽchamel sauce, flavored with caramelized onions for sweetness (and thus transformed into a sauce soubise), is poured over the hops shoots in a shallow casserole dish, and baked until tender. "And, of course, the price is exorbitant, far higher than that of white asparagus," he added.
Many American homebrewers also grow hops in their backyards. After the hops become established, it almost becomes a necessity to harvest some spring shoots, as they spread so wildly. The Morfords have taken the harvest one step further, by preserving the harvested shoots in a seasoned brine; thus, the hops shoots can be used like any premium pickled vegetable in a composed salad, or as a garnish.
"We are starting production on a limited basis this spring," said Morford, "and will be able to supply customers by the summer." Just in time for salad season.
Following are classic recipes for hops in cooking, Again, should you be lucky enough to have fresh hops growing nearby, choose the aroma varieties in cultivation, or merely take the tips of the bittering hops shoots. Just two inches will taste piquant enough to satisfy your taste for hops!
For more information on pickled hop shoots, contact Melaine or Bruce Morford, Windflower Farms Inc., 509-848-2490.

Poached Eggs on Hops
A specialty of Antwerp, from A Taste of the Belgian Provinces, (The Tuesday Group, Brussels, 1992).4 eggs8 ounces hop shootsWater1 teaspoon lemon juice2 tablespoons butterSalt and pepper to taste
Method1. Wash the hop shoots and place in a 2-quart saucepan, filled with salted, boiling water. Add lemon juice and cook until tender, about 10 minutes.2. Refresh hops under cold water briefly to restore their color, and place in a warmed serving dish. Dot with butter.3. Bring a skillet full of water to a simmer. Stir in a few drops of vinegar. Poach the eggs for approximately 5 to 6 minutes, or until yolks are just firm.4. Place the poached eggs on top of the hop shoots, and serve with hot toast. Yields 4 servings.
Endive and Hop Gratin
12 large endive leaves, washed and drained6 slices Bayonne ham, cut in half lengthwise12 wedges Trappist cheese, such as Chimay, or good quality beerkase4 ounces hop shoots, chopped into 1/2-inch lengths3 tablespoons butter3 tablespoons flour1 1/2 cups milk, at room temperatureSalt and pepper to taste
Method1. Wrap a ham slice around a wedge of cheese, and place in the center cavity of a leaf of endive; place in a buttered baking dish. Repeat until all endive leaves are stuffed with ham and cheese and arranged in the baking dish.2. Blanch the hop shoots in boiling salted water for 2 minutes; drain in a fine mesh colander or sieve. When cool enough to handle, sprinkle over the endive casserole.3. Make a bŽchamel sauce by melting the butter in a large nonstick skillet. When butter is bubbling, whisk in the flour and cook until lightly browned and aromatic. Slowly whisk in the milk, stirring well to remove lumps. Cook until slightly thickened. Season to taste with salt and pepper.4. Pour the bŽchamel sauce over the endives, and bake the casserole at 350 degrees F for 35 to 45 minutes, or until the sauce is bubbling and cheese is melted and browned.Serves 6.
Hop Giardinara
4 ounces diced hop shoots4 ounces water1 ounce capers4 ounces diced celery4 ounces diced sweet onion3 ounces diced red bell pepper1 ounce chopped sundried tomatoes1 tablespoon minced thyme1 teaspoon cracked black pepperOlive oil and lemon juice to taste
Method1. Steam the hop shoots in water, in a microwave-safe dish, heated on "high" setting for 4 minutes. Drain and let cool.2. Blend the other ingredients, and stir in the hops. Yields 1 1/2 cups of crunchy relish, perfect for topping deli sandwiches or toasted cheese bruschetta.